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There’s a perfect burger for everyone — well done, medium rare, practically mooing — and I respect all of them, even the wrong ones. Whiskey River makes a fine burger, no question, but when I want my burger, the one that hits the char‑on‑the‑outside, rare‑to‑medium‑rare sweet spot, I go to Five Leaves in Williamsburg. And this one? This one did the trick. I took one bite and immediately forgave every bad burger I’ve ever met. The fries were so good they made McDonald’s fries feel like something you give a toddler to keep them quiet. Williamsburg itself was showing off. The whole street looked like the world had gotten younger overnight — everyone in sleeveless tees and shorts, strolling like they were auditioning for a summer they already owned. Forma Pasta next door was buzzing too, mopeds zipping in and out with delivery bags like a Roman cavalry. Meanwhile, I was two martinis deep — the 5L martinis, the ones that come with that adorable little bottle in a bowl of ice, like a pet you’re supposed to finish. You don’t need a second martini there, but they give it to you anyway, which feels like encouragement and a warning at the same time. My friend’s steak melted on the tongue. The staff — bartenders, waitresses, the whole cast — were beautiful in that effortless Brooklyn way, like they were born knowing how to carry a tray and break a heart. By the time the evening turned from warm to a little nippy, I was already planning my return. Five Leaves has earned a spot in my personal gospel: places where the food is good, the drinks are generous, and the night feels like it’s leaning in to tell you a secret. Five Leaves 18 Bedford Avenue Williamsburg, Brooklyn
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AuthorCHARLES PEARSON Archives
August 2026
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